Shkodra City , whose history is 2400 years old, is of special interest because of its traditions, characteristics, people and ancient history.
Lying by the side of the lake, at the foot of the Rozafa castle, and sorrounded by the Buna, Drini and Kiri rivers, Shkodra exhibits a rare natural beauty. Its Mediterranean climate with sunny days is healthy, the beach waters are clean and agricultural production is abundant.
Shkodra's favourable geographical position, being at the centre of all trade routes running from Central to Western Europe , has continuosly given a new impetus its life from ancient and Medieval times to the present. Shkodra bears traces of all historical periods, from which it has inherited its culture, bravery, emancipation, wisdom, hospitality.
The beauty of the city is attributed to generosity of its nature and the great artistic skill of the architects. The characteristic houses of the old city, the castle, the mosques, churches and architectural monuments rise side with the blocks of flats providing an appealing landscape where the present is in harmony with the traditions of the past. Such a harmony is also ingrained in the people who define the times and make the history.
There are many museums and cultural monuments in Shkodra, in which historical treasures are kept that give witness to Shkodra's place in history and the many political, economic and cultural events that have been born here throughout the centuries.
Although Shkodra has suffered damage from wars, it has preserves many special characteristics that astound its visitors. It is itself a museum to be explored. Visiting travellers and researches have given high regard to its natural nad cultural resources.
Shkodra's historic kernel is at the very entrance to the city; its cultural and administrative institutions are at its heart. The history of the Shkodra city bears great national historical value. The surrounding villages with their vast fields, dense forests and clean waters from a marvellous landscape.
Shkodra's inhabitans are open-minded, friendly, hospotable and full of humour.
A PHYSICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW
Let the ones who want to travel to Shkodra get some brief physical and geographical information that will urge them to explore its natural resources and enjoy its recreational activities.
Shkodra is beyond doubt, one of the most interesting cities in Albania . It lies in North-Western Albania and spreads over approximately 2558 km. The surrounding district extends from the Albanian Alps to the sea.
The city is situated by the lake and is surrounded by rivers. Its privileged geographical position has created a unique recreational environment.
The most vital part of the Shkodra Basin consists of the Shkodra Lowlands on which the city lies. Its plains rise 8.7 m above sea-level in the south and 20 m in the north. On the basis of their physical and geographic characteristics they are classified into Lower-Shkodra (Nenshkodra) and Upper-Shkodra (Mbishkodra) plains, on which hill systems (Bushati, Berdica, Kodheli, Rrenci and Kakarriqi hills) sprawl harmoniously. Going further North and North-east from the city, the beautiful alpine nature comes into view. As the relief rises the mountains mingle with deep valleys, some of which are so narrow that they form canyons, others are very wide providing great tourist interest.
The lowlands extenting among a mountainous relief is subject to the influence of eastern winds. Together with the close proximity to the Adriatic Sea and to the Shkodra Lake , these factors combine to create a mediterranean climate that is more humid and cooler than in other parts of the West Albanian Lowland in winter and hot in summer. The average temperatures are 5°c in Jannuary and 26°C in the hottest month. The Western Alp which lie in the most northern part of the region have an alpine climate.
The cold, dry Murlani wind blows often in the Shkodra basin in winter, occasionally in Autumn and very rarely in the other seasons, when another wind, the Shiroka, is common. The latter make the rivers become swollen. The annual amount of precipitation in Shkodra is 1800 mm. The most humid seasons are autumn and winter.
Thanks to the suitable relief and climate conditions, the city abounds in water resources such as Shkodra. Lake , Buna, Drini and Kiri Rivers . The lake is linked with Buna River which in turn is linked with Velipoja Beach and the Dry Brook (Perroi i Thate) meanders into Razma, Boga and Thethi, which are marvellous tourist centres. This hydrological network (the lake, Buna and Drini) harmoniously intertwines the lake and river landscapes with the hilly and mountainous one, giving great variety and interest. Shkodra also has an underground network (Syri i Sheganit, Cemi i Selces, Cemi i Rrjodhit) and spring system that have encouraged the development of the city in the fields of fishing, eco-tourism, hydro-power, running water, industry, agriculture, etc.
Shkodra's flora and fauna provide attractive, which can offer pleasant views to tourists.
Its flora both natural and cultivated is rich in species. The wild pines, sea pines, acacias, poplars and cypress-trees form woods that encircle the city. Visitors can enjoy the pleasure of woods in Taraboshi, at the castle and in the Tepe and Rrenci hills. Shkodra's green belt of cultivated trees and grass offers Shkodra a peasant microclimate.
If you wish to leave the city and travel to the mountainous resorts towards the Alps , you will come across different vegetation zones, massifs with marvellous forests in Razem (Fushe Zeze), Theth, (National Park), Vermosh etc. There the beauty of the alpine meadows, summer pastures and medical plants will amaze you. There are approximately 1900 kinds of plants in this region.
The vegetation, water and relief resources have contributed to the abundance and variety of the animal world. The number of animal species mounts to 3500-4000, and up to 300 species birds are either resident or visitors to the area. Such animals as foxes, jackals, martens, goats, pigs and wild rabbits inhabit the dense forests of the region enticing both tourists and hunters.
There are few cities that have such a picturesque lake, abundant rivers, fertile and green hills. Shkodra is 90 km from the Alps and 32 km from the sea (55 km from the Shengjini Port ). This natural complex harmonises the lake, mountain and sea tourism and offers opportunities for transit trade.
This natural beauty has been an important perspective for outstanding foreign scientists such as: Antonio Baldaci, Dofler, Franc Nopca, Miss Durham as well as for local ones such as Rrok Zojzi, Shan Pici, Gasper Jakova, etc.
SHKODRA LAKE
The lake represents one of the most interesting and complicated hydrological systems in the Ballkans. It is of both tectonic and carstic origin. It is the largest lake in the peninsula; its surface is 368 km², of which 149 belong to the Albanian territory. It is a great natural, scientific, economic, and recreational resource. It is shallow, but is has a rich flora. There are approximately 700 kinds of microalgae and 50 kinds of fish (carp, mullet, eel, etc.). The annual fish production is 50 quintal per hectare. The lake is outstanding for its diversity and some of its resources are worthy of consideration: luxurious and relaxing environments are to be found in the tourist villages of Shiroka, Zogaj and Bregu i Ranes, situated on the lake shores. Shiroka's beauty and the scent of the sage tempted King Zogu I to built one of his most beautiful palaces that now forms part of the Shiroka landscape from sunrise to sunset. The lake is what every Shkodra person prefers. It offers relaxation and amusement.
Buna River
It is the only navigable river in our country. It source is Shkodra lake and it is 44 km long. Its average flow at the source is 320 m/sec. After 1.5 km Buna joins the Drini and its flow doubles ranking the former among the largest Mediterranean rivers. The confluence is one the most interesting hydrological points in the Ballkans. It is through this river that the different kinds of fish such as mullet, eel, etc., migrate.
Buna flows into the Adriatic . Sea forming a marvellous delta, which is very rich in fish and fowl.
Drini River
It is the longest river in our country. Although it is 285 km, only 17.7 km runs through Shkodra territory. It has a strong water flow and great hydro-power resources. Three hydropower stations (Vau i Dejes, Koman and Fierza) are built on it forming three artificial lakes of an amazing beauty. The lakes are rich in fish and fowl.
Kiri River
It rises in the Alps and bears alpine characteristics. The river increases in autumn and in winter. The valley it passes through is full of ups and downs, at some places it is narrow, at some others wide. Its flora in general and its plant layers in particular have great diversity and value. There are other rivers in the Shkodra region such as the Shala, Cemi and Vermoshi that flow down from the high mountains of the Western Alps sharing their characteristics.
AN HISTORICAL OVERVIEW
While in Shkodra you can enjoy its beautiful nature as well as its history, culture and life-long traditions. No matter how brief the information may be, it will give rise to tourist interests. The earliest evidence of human activity discovered in the Shkodra Basin belongs to the middle of the Palaeolithic Era. However the remains from the Bronze Age and the following ones are more intense and continuous.
This territory was inhabited by the Illyrian tribe-Labeati, members of which were skilful navigators and merchants. Trade with other regions brought about the founding of Shkodra city-as a marked and residence for its Illyrian inhabitants. Shkodra's existence as an Illyrian city is traced back to the IV-th century BC. Through the centuries it has been known as Scodra, Scobre, Scodrai, Scodre, Skydreonopolis and Shkodra. The city stretched over 15 hectares. The sea was 18000 paces from the city, which was surrounded by the Klausali (Kiri) and Barbana (Buna) rivers. Shkodra was the main centre of the Illyrian kingdom in the III-rd century BC. It was in Shkodra that the last Illyrian kings resided and that the greatest historical events related to the Illyrian kingdom took place. At the end of the II-rd century, Shkodra's citizenry had its own bronze coin, providing evidence that Shkodra was traverse by trade routes before the Roman occupation.
Ceramics, bronze, iron and silver artefacts and architectural remains testify to the intensity of life in Shkodra. By this period, economic and trade relations were established with the most important Mediterranean centres. Buna Haven was the starting point and the final destination of many terrestrial and naval routes of antiquity.
Shkodra's occupation by Rome marked the end of the Illyrian Kingdom . Nevertheless, it remained the main Labeati centre after its re-organisation. Shkodra fell under Byzantine rule during the first half of the IV-th century AD.
During mediaeval times Shkodra was an economically and socially developed city. It had a unitarian, material and spiritual culture. Its precise history during the VI-th century is unclear because of a crisis the city life underwent. Documents and archaeological discoveries belonging to this period as well as the information of the later periods highlight a dual process: the establishment of feudal relations; and the strengthening of the indigenous aristocracy. The civilisation of this period demonstrates that cultural unity and Illyrian traditions were still strong. Although Shkodra's culture was threatened by the influence of the Roman and Byzantine cultures, it preserved its originality, which is proved by the Komani culture (VI-VIII century) and the archaeological discoveries. They testify to the continuity of the Illyrian-Albanian culture.
In 1040, the Serbs conquered Shkodra. The city was under the rule of the Albanian feudal-lord Balshaj from 1355 to 1396. Complex relations were established that lasted over a century with a number of foreign states such as Venice , Ragusa , Hungary , Byzantine, Ottoman Turkey, etc. It was in 1396, that they surrendered leaving the city to be ruled by Venice until 1479. The new rulers named Shkodra Scutari.
In the second lalf of the XIV-th century, medieval Shkodra reached the climax of its pre-Ottoman political, social and cultural development. This is demonstrated by the famous codicils of the medieval city, which were eventually discovered in Venice . The city was self-governed, had its own status and coins, and exported to Venice , Ragusa and Alexandria .
Shkodra faced two Ottoman sieges. It was heavily bombed in 1474, but was not conquered. The Turkish armed forces attacked again in 1478-1479. Although the Shkodran people fought heroically, Venice handed the city to the Turks to rule. The year 1479 marks the beginning of Ottoman rule that lasted for approximately five centuries. The city lost its brilliance due to its destruction. It began to grow again in the XVI-th century as re-population began. Shkodra City became an important administrative and economic centre in the XVII-th century. By this time it had 1800 houses.
Shkodra's trade unions handicrafts flourished in XVII-th century; the first trade unions (esnafe) were founded; Shkodra was known as an important trading centre situated on the trade routes from West to East. The leading bejlers had strong grip on the trade unions of Begollaj, Qaushollaj and Bushatlinj independently governed Shkodra's pashallek for 75 years (1757-1831). At this point, the city had 25000 inhabitants.
The city changed it character in these years. Buildings scaled the hill, giving the city the form of a cone on top of which rose the castle. The later historical, geographical and economic factors let to its expansion for miles to its present area. By that time its urban perspective was complete.
Shkodra became an important cultural centre by the middle of the XIX-th century. Its most outstanding representatives engaged in the Albanian national movement, were: Zef Jubani, Pashko Vasa, Luigj Gurakuqi, Gjergj Fishta, Ndre Mjeda, Isuf Tabaku, Filip Shiroka, Risto Siliqi, Kel Marubi, Kol Idromeno, Mati Logoreci, etc. It is for this reason that Albania 's first cultural institutions were set up in this very city. The famous photographers of the Marubi family began work in 1858. The first two publishing houses brought out the first newspapers and magazines written in Albanian in 1870. The Jesuits and Franciscans set up the first museums and archives at the end of the XIX-th century. The first musical band was organised in 1878, while the first theatrical show in Albanian was staged in 1888. The first films were shown in 1911 and the first literary, cultural and sports associations were organised in this year too. The first laic public school was set up in 1913, and the first state gymnasium in 1922. Besides, there were religious schools and cultural associations. All of these are evidence of the development of national civilisation and art in Albania .
Shkodra has always been “an open window facing the West”. The first capitalist relations as well as traders and the petty bourgeoisie emerged in the XIX-th century. The French Chancellor Mark Bryer wrote about Shkodra by the middle of the XIX-th century as follows: “ It has ascended the staircase of prosperity and power… of a big city that had approximately 40000 inhabitants, most of whom made their living by trade. It had 2500 shops, 8 pharmacies, two publishing houses, and a large market (bezisten), two public bathrooms, a musical band, different public, social and state institutions. There were nine chancelleries of the foreign powers in the city. “Shkodra's market set trade into motion and established relations with neighbouring countries as well as with distant ones. There flourished 80 crafts. Its industry was at its offspring, because the bourgeoisie in Shkodra was very weak. By this time the workers' movement came into view in Albania . The first workers strike was organised in 1901, while the First of May was celebrated for the first time in Shkodra in 1905.
Shkodra's citizens and highlanders ranked first in the great uprising of 1910-1912. By the time independence was declared on November 28 th , 1912 , Montenegrin armed forces laid siege to Shkodra, which in spite of betrayal and hunger, fought for seven long months demonstrating great heroism. Finally Shkodra surrendered. One year later, on November 28 th 1913 , the foreign troops withdrew and the national flag was raised in Shkodra.
Shkodra's people waged a heroic struggle against the rapacious intentions of Monte Negro and Serbia (1913-1916). The Austro-Hungarian armed forces conquered Shkodra in 1916, while the military intervention of the Serb-Croation-Slovenian state met with failure in 1920.
Shkodra was one of the main centres of the democratic movement of 1921-'24. It developed very slowly in the years 1924-'39. The native capitalists in co-operation with the Italians built up factories for flour, cement, cigarette, oil and soap, etc.
Shkodra's people took an active part in the National Liberation War. The city was occupied by the Italian fascists on April 7 th 1939, who later yielded to the German armed the people's armed resistance, which later took the form of demonstrations and strikes. Tens of heroes and martyrs laid their life down on the altar of liberation. Shkodra was liberated by the partisan forces on November 29 th , 1944 .
After liberation, Shkodra like the rest of the country was subjected to socialist laws. An industrial zone was established on the gravel banks of the Kiri River . The number of workers rose above 15000. economic centralisation and the principal of “self-reliance” decelerated industrial development. Consequently, economy was doomed to stagnation and decay.
Socialism gave way to democracy in 1990. Shkodra people were initiators of the democratic movement in Albania . Shkodra's economy was liberalised on the basis of private property and free initiative.
MUSEUMS AND MONUMENTS
Shkodra has treasured historical and monumental attractions, such as its residential areas (Gajtani town and cave; Shkodra and Vigu castels, Danja, Drishti and Shurdhaku towns); its public and cultural institutions (the monumental water supply of Bushat, the Church of Shirq, St. Stephen's church, the Mosque of Lead); and its traditional streets and houses.
Have a look at the city map and you will notice 90 monumentes, of which the antique and mediaeval ones will be the most conspicuous.
This Album guide introduces you to some of these monuments that convey moving messages from the past
The Castle of Shkodra
It is known by the typonym – “Rozafa”. The castle occupies an imposinging position at the southern entrance of the city. The Buna, Drini and Kiri rivers surround it. According to legend, the castle was built by three brothers. To ensure that the walls would stand they had to wall in the wife of the youngest brother. She willingly sacrificed herself on condition that they leave her right breast exposed so as to feed her newborn son, her right hand to caress him and her right foot to rock his cradle. Archaeological excavations and discoveries have highlighted the fact that the castle is one of the most ancient residential areas in the Shkodra basin. It was inhabited in the Bronze Age, approximately 4000 years ago.
Tourists will appreciate visiting the numerous buildings and monuments within its walls that belong to different historical periods. The castle in an incarnation of all elements that throw light upon civil life in Shkodra. The Roman historian Tit Livi brought forth evidence concerning the ancient city, which was both compelling and well defended. The castle bears traces that date back to the classical period through medieval castle in the second half of the XIV-th century (at the time of Balshaj reign), but the Venetian construction in 1407, 1416, 1468 and later Turkish additions completed its form.
The medieval stone and the mortar walls were higher than the earlier Illyrian walls. They were in harmony with the irregular contours of the hill. The inner section was divided into three yards that were joined together by smaller gateways. It was in the first yard that the army was barracked. The larger second yard held cultural buildings, water, containers, stores and a prison. The third yard was higher than the first two and served as a fortress for the garrison. Its surface, inside the walls, was 4 hectares. The numerous secret underground passageways constituted an important part of the fortification system. Rozafa has stood through the centuries like a powerful city guard. The castle was restored in the 1980's.
It is two kilometres from the city centre. One can travel comfortably by car to its gate as this part of the rood is tarmaced; the rest is cobbled.
St. Stephen's Church
This church is in the northwestern part of the Rozafati castle, in the vicinity of its surrounding walls. It was built in three phases. The knave and the altar alcove were built during the first phase at the end of the XIII-th century, the cellar and the southern wall of the church during the second. The church was converted into a Muslim mosque during the third phase following the Turkish occupation.
The Mosque of Lead
This mosque in the medieval quarter of the city, close to the “Rozafa” castle. Built in 1773 by Mehmet Pasha Bushati, it was designed to resemble the Sultan's Great Mosque in Istanbul the walls were built with carefully carved stones. The windows and the door openings were profiled. The capitols and the supporting pillars in the courtyard were engraved with leaf forms. When seen from outside the dynamic volumes of the numerous inner-yard cupolas are fascinating. The mosque functioned as such until the middle of the XIX-th century. When the city extended to the North it became a valuable cultural monument.
The Mesi Bridge
This bridge stretches over the Kiri River close to Mesi village and approximately 6 km from the city. It was built by Mehmet Pashe Bushati in the second half of the XVIII-th century. The bridge is 108 m long and 3.4 m wide and it has 13 stone arches. The span of the largest arch is 21.5 m long. The arch is 12 m high. Until recently, the Mesi Bridge joined Shkodra City to Drishti.
Hamami (Public Baths)
Public baths occupy an important place among the social buildings of the medieval times. The city hamam was very functional. It was built in 1793 quite close to the city centre. The main part has its cupola, which consists of four divisions: one for undressing, one for sweating, with the other two for washing. The furnace lay below the water tank. When Shkodra Atelie restored it, it acquired its original form and once again attracted of the visitors it had missed for a long time.
The Main Street
This street was built at the beginning of the XX-th century.
Nowadays it is part of the museum zone of the city and bears the distinctive architectural characteristics of the end of the XIX-th century and the beginning of the XX-th century. This street testifies to the economic development of the city of that time. It came to serve as a trading centre and gradually substituted the old Bazaar, which has been the traditional centre for trade. The frontage of this street is outstanding for its architectural value. Its design is classical. It has close blocks of buildings in parallel lines on both sides.
The decorative stuccowork is archived by carefully combining plasterwork with carved stones and decorative bricks.
Traditional houses
Shkodra is well known for its houses with their open foyers (cardak). Houses of this kind belong to the middle of the XIX-th century. Some of them had the open foyer at the front of the house, others at the side. Most of them were two-stories houses, but the ground floor was inhabitable. The design was the same for the two stories. The kitchen bedroom and reception room were on the upper floor. Special attention was paid to the reception room. If one visits the museum houses of Luigj Gurakuqi, Oso Kuka, Pahko Vasa, etc., one will surely be astounded by the marvellous beauty of the ceilings, rosettes, chimneys, lofts, shelves and the yard gates. Elaborately carved wood decorates the rooms. The surrounding walls of these houses are very high.
The floors are wooden and covered with rugs. The door of the reception room usually faces the chimney which is intricately carved because it was on the basis of the value of the chimmey, the ceiling and the yard gate, that the house owners' status was defined. All around the walls there are safas upon which lie cushions embroidered with golden thread. There are authentic wares on the wooden carved shelf next to the door. Silver-coated arms hung on the walls embellishing them. Similar buildings are well preserved in our city. Once the visitors get introduced to them, they can judge for themselves about the nature of the city and the social layers of the XVIII-th and XIX-th century.
Everyone who has had the chance to visit such houses has been impressed by the architectural and historic value. Tourists find them of special interest.
The Historical Museum
This museum is situated in a traditional house once owned by the Popular Hero Oso Kuka. It was built in the last quarter of the XIX-the century and bears great architectural and historic value. The museum is near the city centre (tens of metres from Shkodra Radio Station).
The museum has been enriched with the Jesuit and Franciscan museum collections of the years 1850 and 1890. Besides, other collections of artefacts, documents and works of art previously bought from the Shkodra families, that had lovingly maintained them, are exhibited in the museum. The museum's collection consist of 2700 authentic relics and artefacts, 5000 documents most of which are originals and 40000 documents on educational development. The visitor to the museum is introduced to the past and present-day civilisation of Shkodra.
The museum displays the history of the Shkodra basin chronologically from Palaeolithic times to the present. The history of the Shkodran people, who constitute the cells of this museum, is quite tangible. The periodical publication “Shkodra through the centuries” contributes to it too.
The Castle Museum
“Rozafa” headquarters of the XV-th century were restored and converted into a museum in 1987. A relief of a woman breast-feeding her so reminds the visitors of the castle's ancient legend.
Evidence of the survival efforts of the Shkodran people through the centuries in exhibited on the first floor. The historical documents, maps and artefacts depict the Roman-Illyrian wars of 168 BC, the wars against the Byzantine and Slav forces and the activity of the native feudals-Balshaj. The heroic defence of Shkodra people during the Ottoman siege in the years 1474 and 1478-1479, is displayed in the hall of the second floor. The contribution of the outstanding Shkodra humanists – Barleti and Becikemi occupies an important place in this museum. The collection of arms and projectiles is conceived in close connection with the history of the castle. Visitors are especially interested in the engravings and artwork that represent the activity of the Bushati feudal lords, who constituted the main political force of the XVIII-th century.
Luigj Gurakuqi's Museum-House
Luigj Gurakuqi's house, built in the middle of the XIX-th century, is of a great historical value. It is actually under construction. He was one of the most outstanding figures of our National Renaissance. His house became a museum in 1964. The museum-house, has three rooms, a bedroom and open foyer, all of which are linked to each other. High walls surround the front yard. Its popular architectural value is evident. The artefacts, relics, documents and photographs treasured by his mother, friends and co-operators reveal the intellectual figure of the Hero, who was a poet, publicist, economist and researcher of the Albanian language. He was a herald of freedom and independence. He was the first minister of the first Albanian government. Later, he was appointed minister of finance of Fan Noli's democratic government and Shkodra's deputy. His monument placed in the very centre of the city tells the story of the man who dedicated his whole life to his motherland.
The “Marubi” photo-studio
Shkodra is considered to be the birthplace of Albanian visual art. It was in this city that the first photographies were printed by Marubi. The traditional photographers – Marubi, Pici, Jakova and Rraboshta granted their rich photography funds to the monumental archives of “Marubi” studio. Shkodra with its historical importance is in the centre of their focus. There are thousands of portraits, compositions and landscapes that depict simple people, politicians, popular insurgents, painters, urban areas, architecture works and cultural monuments.
These photos highlight the social reality of the time. They constitute a collection that every country in world would admire.
This institution is an important research centre. There is hardly any field of intellectual thought that does not turn to it for help. Its photographs have been exhibited in Albania and abroad ( France , Italy ). Albums and folders showing such photos have been published. The public has expressed its highest regard.
The Art Gallery
A visit to the art gallery may help you get in touch with the culture of the Shkodra city. The works exhibited in this gallery have the signature of Albanian artists, mainly Shkodra ones, dating from National Renaissance to the present. The gallery has protected and maintained 700 pictures, sculptures, graphics, etc. Since1970 of great interest are the works of Kole Idromeno, Ndoc Martini, Simon Rrota and Zef Kolombi.
Shkodra, the city of ancient traditions has greatly valued the visual arts. Many families have preserved old works of art by native and foreign authors. Scanderbeg's relief carved in wood (by Xh. Belinit) was brought back in Albanian in 1914 from the Vienna Museum where it had been held for three centuries. A painting by Rembrandt was preserved in Shkodra for decades (now it is exhibited in the National Art Gallery in Tirana).
POPULATION
The population of the Shkodra city is homogeneous. The number of the inhabitants is 100000. Shkodra population grew rapidly in the year 1960 due to natural growth 18/00 and to the demographic movement from country to town. Population density is 135 inhabitants per km. Life expectancy has reached 70. Civic population constitutes 44% of the general population. The urbanisation rhythm is high because of the extensive emigration of the village people of the city.
Shkodra is the administrative centre of the municipality, which includes Puka and Malesia e Madhe (The Vast Highland). Shkodra region has two city-halls and communes. There are 23.000 families in Shkodra (most of which consist of five members).
City-planning
Shkodra city has passed built through different constructive stages from the Illyrian period to the present. Its architectural physiognomy is of great historical importance. There are many medieval cultural institutions and Byzantine and Ottoman buildings that bear architectural value.
The old city consisted of e few quarters surrounding the “Rozafati” castle. Shkodra's urban space got its characteristic physiognomy, when the city extended to the south in the XVIII-century. Shkodra as well-known for its narrow streets lined with high stone walls, its greenness, its fruit-trees, pergola wines and flowers (carnations, honey-suckles. Snowdrops, roses, etc.)
The buildings of the XIX-th century were different from the buildings of the medieval times because they had elements of modern architecture of Mediterranean countries. Anyone who has a look at these buildings, agrees to this fact. Many Albanian authors of that time had observed this change. The trade bourgeoisie of the city built new houses, public institutions, hotel-restaurants, parks, boulevards, mosques and churches with a new architectural aspect.
The buildings that were set up after the liberation did not harmonize with the old ones. They damaged the physionomy of the ancient city. Nevertheless, the visitors will find the characteristic narrow streets that still retain the architectural and residential culture of the various historical periods in the old city quarters.
Shkodra's territory (960 hectares) is classified on the bases of its function in three urban zones:
-The inhabited plain zone, whose surface is 765 hectare. Most part of the city lies on this zone.
-The inhabited hilly zone.
-Bahcalleku zone.
Shkodra has network of roads that links it to the other surrounding centres.
The railway transport is 135 km long. The city is linked with the Albanian railway system and the international one via Monte Negro. The Buna river and Pentari mouth link it to the Adriatic sea .
City life
Shkodra's city life underwent great changes due to the political and social progressive process of the year 1991. Many “taboos” became matters of fact and the city life in such aspects as way of living, clothing, domestic furniture and social organisation. The city began to adopt a contemporary physiognomy. A lot of modern buildings (hotels, houses, restaurants and disco-clubs) sprang up. Art and culture tried to follow the example set by the culture of the western countries, but its genres developed unevenly and could not achieve the desired success. Shkodra merchants have tried to lake advantage of the favourable geographic position (Monte Negro at the border) and to stimulate tourist movement and trade. Consequently, the city market is saturated with Albanian and foreign products. A lot of trade centres, markets and supermarkets serve the people. The modern automatic phone system with 9000 numbers meets the needs of the citizens who want to contact people in Albania and abroad by means of the telephone or telegraph.
New emigration and Diaspora have had a positive impact on investments in our city. A contemporary hospital will be constructed. The Red-Cross is making its contribution in the field of medicine by extending the medical network. Hospitals, cure centres and modern dental clinics are being built.
The sensitive spiritual life and the harmony of religious communities (consisting of Muslims, Catholics and Orthodox) have attenuated the social problems of the transitory period. They have conveyed humane messages that incite co-operation, prosperity, and well-being and nourish the hope a better future.
EDUCATION
Shkodra is the birthplace of many outstanding figures, who fought for freedom, educational development, their native language and the Albanian school. The first intellectuals to offer their contribution on a national level were: Pashko Vasa, Luigj Gurakuqi, Zef Jubani, Daut Boriçi, Gjergj Fishta, Nikolle Ivanaj, Hile Mosi, etc.
Their wishes came true in the years '30 of the XIX-th century, when the first schools were opened with the help of the Shkodra inhabitans.
The first laic school was opened in 1913 and the state gymnasium and the dormitory “Malet Tona” (Our mountains) in 1922.
Primary education was consolidated in the years '20-'30. A lot of primary schools were opened.
After the liberation (1944), seven years of education became compulsory (1951) and later eight years of education (19639.
Illiteracy under the age of 40 was completely wiped out. All educational levels made quantitative and qualitative progress. The number of schools of all categories grew up not only in the city, but also in the remote mountainous areas. Technical professional education was attended by thousands of young people. The High Pedagogical Institute of Shkodra was set up. Shkodra people keep in the best reminiscences the teachers who facing extreme difficulties dedicated their youth and knowledge to the pupils from the mountainous Vermoshi to Coastal Velipoja.
Research work get a new physiognomy. Creative personalities such as Vehbi Bala, Kole Ashta, Jup Kastrati, Zija Shkodra, Hamit Beqja, Dhimiter Dhora, etc., were shaped in our schools and in the auditoriums of the High Educational Institute. It was at Shkodra Gymnasium that the star of the modern Albanian science Besnik Sykja was moulded.
The scientific research work carried out in the fields of economics, linguistics, Albanology, natural studies and ecology has met with success. Their achievements are presented in different magazines and bulletins.
“Luigj Gurakuqi” University was set up on the basis of the High Pedagogical Institute in 1991. There are 11 branches of study attended by hundreds of students from northern Albania and Kosovo. There are scientific research section that publish the results of their work in magazines and the Scientific Bulletin of the University. The library has 150.000 books. There are 6 rare books of the XVI-th century, 5 of the XVII-th and17 of the XIX-th. Some of the books on Albanian and Ballkan by foreign Albanologuees are unique. The university publishes the scientific bulletin that comes out every two months. Shkodra University has established relations with foreign universities.
CULTURE
Shkodra, once the cultural capital of the country, is known as the “cradle of the Albanian culture”. The roots of its culture are deeply ingrained in the national cultural heritage perpetuating its impact on the Albanian culture. Our city has given outstanding figures to the Albanian culture. Their art has inspired great events. Their works depict the marvellous spirit of the Shkodran's aspirations for freedom and progress.
LITERATURE
The first Albanian writers Marin Barleti, Marin Becikemi and Dhimiter Frangu grew up in Shkodra. The first history book entitled “Rrethimi i Shkodres” (The Siege of Shkodra) was written by the Shkodra humanist Marin Barleti in 1504. Pashko Vasa, one of the main representatives of Albanian renaissance wrote the hymn song “O moj Shqypni” (Oh, you Albania ) that sounded like a clarion call for freedom after five centuries under the Turkish reign.
In the years 20-30 of the XX-th century, the works of such great literary figures as Gjergj Fishta, Ndre Mjeda, Migjeni and Ernest Koliqi reached the contemporary levels of the Balkan and European literature. They were the forebears of the literary genius of Arshi Pipa and Martin Camaj who began their literary activity in Shkodra and then in Diaspora, in Italy , America and Germany .
The literature in Shkodra, as part of the contemporary Albanian literature reflects life and progress with great dignity. Shkodra is proud of Tefik Gjyli's literature for children, Fadil's Kraja plays, Frederik Reshpja's poetry, Skender's Drini prose and Paulin Selimi's humour. Their works are published and staged at home and abroad.
The well-known generation of writers is joined by the new one, whose prose and poetry testify that Shkodra has always been an exhaustible of conspicuous talents.
MUSIC
Shkodra is known as the main centre of the Albanian music. The first musical band conducted by Paloke Kurti was organised in the period of National renaissance (1878). To the repertoire of the songs of the Shkodra “aheng” (a collection of Shkodra popular songs) were added elaborated popular songs, which were artistically sung. One of the most eminent singers was Marie Kraja who laid the foundations of the interpretation of the new Albanian song.
The nuances of the song melodies are attractive and impressive not only to the Shkodra people, but also to every listener. The popular are presented both on stage and at weddings and celebrations. Of primary importance are the “ahengu” songs. The musical ensembles with their instruments (lahute, cifteli, dajre, zumare, etc.) enliven the songs. The popular music bears ethnical and national originality. Shkodra “jare” (a special kind of song that relays mainly on the interpreting skills of the singer) exceeds the limits of a song and resembles an opera arie.
Shkodra's symphonic and philharmonic orchestras as well as the smaller ones play light and classical music be it Albanian or foreign with great professionalism. Schubert's “The unfinished symphony” was the first symphonic concert. At the beginning of the XX-th century Shkodra has 26 pianos. The first Albanian opera “Mrika” by Preke Jakova was staged in Shkodra in 1958. My city has already granted to the Albanian musical stage the inspired works of Father Martin Gjoka, Cesk Zadeja, Ramadan Sokoli, Simon Gjoni, Abdulla Grimci, Pjeter Gaci, Avni Mula and Tish Daija.
Nowdays, the festivals of light music bear tones of the European an American music.
The festivals of the popular, light and folk music are organised periodically.
The school of music and the Association of the Shkodra Popular Song carry out a wide contemporary activity.
Popular Art
Shkodra has a long tradition in the field of popular art that dates back to Illyrian art. Traditional wares of silk, textile and silver have retained their artistic value to the present. They are particularly appreciated by foreigners who greatly esteem the folk and ethnic value of these wares and the creative talent of the craftsmen. The wonderful Shkodra popular costumes are very ancient and original. The large variety of costumes (fustanell, tirku, brakeshat, brandaveket e zinj, xhubleta, kemisha e gjate, and jeleku e brandaveket) is dependent on village traditions as well as on age and sex of the owner. All clothing articles the seal of a well-cultivated tradition. Shkodra people have always loved the traditional costumes they wear only on very special occasions such as feasts and folklore festivals.
Of great interest are the intrinsic motives of the popular dances and instruments which are historically and culturally important.
Painting
Shkodra has a rich tradition in this field too. Renaissance painters made use of the art of colours to express the patriotic theme and to depict the ethnographic prosperity of the region. Their paintings with the romantic touches and national characteristics are realistic. One of the most outstanding painters was Kole Idromeno whose paintings portray simple people, their everyday life and landscape. Ndoc Martini is known as a painter who moderately applied the plastic method. Other authors of this period have masterfully depicted the actual, ethnographic and folk life.
Painters and sculptors concentrated on the actual themes after the liberation. Their works, mainly oil-paintings were exhibited in the local, national and international salons. Some of them are in the Art Gallery of Tirana and others in the local public institutions. Portraits and paintings by Vladimir Jani, Jakup Keraj, Ismail Lulani, Danish Juknia, Edi Hila and caricatured by Shtjefen Palushi have won national prizes and international esteem. They are known as great individuals of the new Albanian pictorial art.
The monuments of Isa Bulletini, Luigj Gurakuqi, the Vigu heroes and the memorial of the four Martyrs of Democracy are situated in the most important squares complete the physiognomy of the city.
Sport
Shkodra is the city with the oldest sport traditions. Shkodra team “Juventus” played the first football match (as a formal activity) against an Austo-Hungarian team in Shkodra in 1918. it was in the same year that “Vllaznia” club was set up. The first cycling tour and the first athletic race were organised in Shkodra in 1920. The initiator of the sportive movements was Paloke Nikaj.
Tens of Shkodra athletes were successful in the international activities representing the colours of their sport-club in the national and international championships with great dignity. Loro Borici was one of the most outstanding sportsmen who played in the First League of the Italian Championship. He was the great captain of the Albanian team that won the Balkan Olympiad of 1946. He was appointed coach of the Albanian national team in the 70-ies. The stadium of the city with a capacity of 30.000 seats, has recently been named “Loro Borici”.
The sports palace in Shkodra bears the name of “Qazim Dervishi”. Many Shkodra sportsmen and coaches belong to the elite of the Albanian sportsmen. Some of them are: Feti Dizdari, Renato Radoja, Pina Thani, Ali Bushati, Agim Tafili, Faruk Kalleshi, Iljaz Guri, Selami Ibrahimi, Besnik Gjetja, Gezim Uruçi, etc.
“Vllaznia” multi-sport club has won a lot of football, basketball, athletic, cycling swimming, boxing, free and classical wrestling championships. A lot of teams of the adult and young sportsmen and sportswomen are trained in the sportive fields, sports palace and stadium every day.
“Migjeni” theatre
This theatre is well-known for its traditions. The first show was staged in the year 1879. The first amateur theatrical association was organised in the 1920's at the State gymnasium. In the 80-ies of the last century Shkodra became a center of the amateur movement. The theatrical troupe has staged many plays by native and foreign authors. In its repertoire are included classical and contemporary works. Shkodra actors have been applauded by albanians living at home as well as by the Albanians of Kosovo, Macedonia and Monte Negro. Shkodra theatrical troupe has been awarded many first prizes at the festivals of the theatres.
Besides the staff of the dramatic theatre exists, also that of the variety show, which with its humour and become lovable for the aborigens. It stays by the traditional humour of the tables of Shkodra of the joke, carnivals, that had give the name “The city of humour”.
The talented actors and play-directors who have dedicated their life to the “Migjeni” theatre stage are immortal. The famous actor Zef Jubani has breathed life into Molier's Harpagon. He was the predecessor of Tinka Kurti, Tano Banushi, Serafin Fanko, Zyliha Miloti, etc. The most successful singers were Bik Ndoja and Shyqyri Alushi, etc.
The “Marin Barleti” library
Shkodra library has treasured the cultural heritage of the city. The library of the City Hall was built in 1931. Old Shkodra families has rich library funds. The richest libraries were owned Bogdani and Bushatlinj families, by the Jesuits and the Franciscans, “Bashkimi”, “Agimi” and “Vllaznia” associations, “Gjuha Shqipe” and “Komsise letrare Shqipe” clubs.
The state library was set up in 1946. Its funds consist of 200.000 books. It is the second biggest library in Albania , because Tirana library ranks first. The Albanian fund of books (8000 volumes) is very rich and bears great values. The number of the volumes per section is : 6000, 6000 Albanological volumes, 33.000 foreign books (exluding 25.000 volumes in Russian), 30.000 periodicals, 31.000 children books granted by Soros foundation. There are incunabula and very rare works dating from the XV-th, XVI-th and XVII-th century. Some of the works, such as encyclopedias, lexicons and dictionaries are unique in Albania . Bogdani's first publication of 1685, Jul Varibova's “Gjella e Shen Merise Virgin” (Virgin Mart's dish), Marin Barleti's works and foreign authors'books on Scanderbeg are some of the earliest works preserved in this library. The library is in Albanian collections, newspaper and magazines that have been published in Shkodra since 1878.
Mass Media
It keeps people informed about everyday occurrences. The State radio-Station of Shkodra in the oldest media in the city. Actually, Shkodra has two private TV stations (Shkodra TV1 land Rozafa TV), a number of newspapers, “Idromeno” and “Arshi Pipa” publishing houses as well as “Elena Kadare” publishing establishment. The readers are offered a wide choice of artistic and scientific books.
Radio and Press
The first newspaper in Shkodra was “Ishkodra”, which was published on June 1879. Radio Shkodra trasmitted its first program on May 13-th 1945. By that time it was poorly equipped. Shkodra people enjoyed listening to the beautiful pop and folk concerts as well as to sports, humour and children's emissions. Shkodra's Radio was listened at home and abroad, especially in the Nordic countries. A new station was built in Kuc-Vukatana and a modern studio in the centre of the city. Its program lasts 13 hours. Radio Shkodra listeners take pleasure in listening to its programs at home and abroad.
Tv programs start at 7 a.m. and end at 12 p.m.
Publishing Houses
Shkodra has a very good tradition in the field of topography. Almost all religious institutions of the catholic clergy and e few individuals had their small publishing houses before the liberation of the country. The publishing houses which were poorly equipped with pedals and flat press machines published 68 titles and periodical newspapers and magazines.
The implements of the publishing houses were arranged together to set up the “Migjeni” publishing house that brought out all the publications of Northern Albania . A considerable number of books, bulletins, speeches, literary almanacs and newspapers have come out of this publishing house.
“Migjeni” publishing house is actually a private property. The new publishing houses – “Rozafat”, “Volaj” and “Isufi” print thousands of artistic, cultural and political books.
Tourist houses
The coastal, lake and river geographic environments as well as the cultural and historic wealth of the ancient city rich in customs and traditions promise to satisfy the visitors' demands.
The beautiful beach of Velipoja stretches to the South east of the city, 30 km from it. The beach is 14 km long and 300 m wide offering great advantages to the development of tourism. This seaside is a pearl of the Albanian nature where the sea, the river, the strand with its unexploited sand and crystal water, the forest, the lagoon and the mountains combine to form a harmonious landscape.
Velipoja offers great chances to hunters too. It has curative climatic conditions as it is the newest beach in Albania . The average is above 25 c only for 100 days each year.
If you can choose Velipoja beach to relax, it will not fall short of your expectations. You can swim, sail, go hunting rabbits, wild pigs, pheasant, and wild ducks, in short, you will get amused. The ones who are fond of fishing can go to the sea or Viluni River to catch trout.
Some bungalows, hotels and luxurious houses with all the necessary accommodations have recently been built. The shops offer the customers a wide choice. In the restaurants, the clients can choose either European or Shkodra dishes.
The public, health and post-telecommunication services are at the required level. Shkodra inhabitants are daily visitors of the beach.
The Velipoja Reservoir
The surface area of the reservoir is 694.5 km. In this zone there are four big marshes and 182 hectare of high pines and swamp poplar trees. Ducks of different varieties, especially the red-head ones are subject to hunting. In the forest there are a lot of other animals such as turtles, rabbits, gewgaws, foxes, etc. The natural plants and fowls that live in this marsh quietly and spontaneously are quite rare in Albania .
Shiroka
The touristic village of Shiroka lies by the side of Shiroka lake at the foot of Taraboshi mountain. It is 7 km from the city. It has excellent climatic conditions that guarantee a wonderful relaxing time. The fresh air that comes from the depth of the Alps filters through the lake waters and comes healthy to the edge of the Taraboshi mountain. If you like to stay in Shiroka for a few days you can choose to go either to the wonderful hotel that has all the necessary accommodations or to the small houses the villagers have prepared for the guest. The food served at the restaurants and at the trade centres is delicious. You can bathe, fish, sail and climb the mountain in Shiroka.
You will be offered public, health and post-telecommunication services at any time you need.
Razma
Razma, situated by the Veleciku mountainside, is one of the most beautiful resorts of the Albanian Alps. It is 41 km from the city. Its climate is healthy. A block of houses of the alpine type rises among the pines, meadows, alpine pastures and mountain landscapes. Razma is a very good place for alpine excursions, sports matches and hunting. It is visited all year round. The visitors appreciate its refreshing climate in summer and its snow in winter.
The paved road facilitates transport and the trade and restaurant network meet the needs of the visitors.
Thethi
The picturesque village of Thethi lies north-west Shkodra city, approximately 80 km from it. The road winds among wonderful forests and landscapes. The visitors cannot take their eyes away from the mountain ridges and peaks that rise above the narrow valleys full of waterfalls.
The inherited spiritual wealth of its people is reflected in their legends and myths. The mountain eagles can be seen flying in the sky. Shala river abounds in trout (a delicious fish). The mountainsides are covered with the hundred-year old forests, which shelter beautiful birds and wild animals such as: bears, roebucks, wolves, foxes, wild goats.
Thethi basin in 800 m above sea-level. It is surrounded by the rugged mountain peaks of Radohina, Harapi and Alia that are the most conspicuous in the Alps for their rare beauty. The crystal icy water of Shala river flows through the village. The waterfalls and cataracts rush nosily down the mountains. Then is considered to be the place of cataracts, waterfalls, dense plants and colourful meadows. It is healthy and pleasant to walk through these rare views. There one can see the flowers blossom in the sunny the meadows that intersect the forests. Thethi is characterised by forests, pastures and alpine and sub-alpine meadows. The surface area of the National Park in Thethi is 2300 hectare.
Nature has been generous with this alpine village. If you are an amateur fisherman you can go fishing. If you are an amateur hunter you will have the possibility to go hunting wild animals and be amused.
Foreigners are surprised by the beauty of the traditional costumes of the indigenous population, handed down from generation to generation for thousands of years. The customs and traditions are very interesting too.
Thethi is a virgin tourist centre; Going to Theth presents no environmental, but its people are hospitable.
The visitors can stay either at hotels or at private houses. The public, health and post-telecommunication services are of you disposal at any time of you need them.
The Lake of Koman
If you want to have an unforgettable voyage through the valleys, canyons and the special landscapes cruise in the Lake Koman , that is 30 km from the city.
The lake was formed when the Komani hydropower station (600000 kw/hour was built on the Drini river gathering its water in a lake. Its surface area is 12 km (34.5 km long and 50-60 wide). The lake is surrounded by forested mountains that rise 1000-1200 m above sea level.
This region is well-known for its attrations and the great historical importance. A grave of the yard of the 6-8 century AD, found in the Komani village that is quite close to the lake, throws light upon the ancient Albanian society.
Albanian and foreign visitors are offered travel facilities. The ferry-boat carries passengers and goods too.
Vau i Dejes Lake
This lake is in the vicinity of Shkodra. Its surface area is 24.7 km and its maximal depth is 52 m. The lake was formed when the Vau i Dejes hydropower station (250 kw/hour) was built on the Drini river gathering its water in a lake. Its beauty is bewitching. Everyone feels happy passing through the gorges of the mountains surrounding the lake the forested shores. The carstic phenomena are very attractive.
The lake serves for transport, fishing and tourism.
Kelmendi
It is an extensive area with a broken relief. Kelmendi's geomorphologic and biological diversity is very interesting. The oak and conifer forests are one of the most beautiful forests in our country. Cemi river that flows through Kelmendi is one of the most beautiful river in Albania . The trout fish that grows in this river is tasteful. The forest abounds in wild goats, roebucks and bears. Eagles, that personify this interesting zone, fly high above the forest trees.
Lepusha and Vermoshi are the special interest because of the fascinating beauty of picturesque areas. The climate favours the development of tourism. Vermoshi valley is of a glacier origin. The village next to the valley shares the same name.
The visitors find the imposing forests and the green flowery meadows of this region very enticing.
Gastronomy
Gastronomy is a credit to Shkodra. There are a lot of restaurants, pizzerias, bars and hotels in Shkodra that are well-known for their traditional service. The food is not only delicious, but natural and fresh too.
It is said that the cuisine of Shkodra city has derived from the Turkish one. As a matter of fact, Shkodra has its own tradition of cooking. Certain kinds of drinks such as “Kallmeti” wine (many times winner of international prizes) and grapes' raki (made with the grapes that grow in the vineyards near-by the Shkodra city), add to the wonderful flavour of the traditional food which is especially appreciated by the foreigners. The clients who are offered a great variety of choise, can order the dishes they prefer.
Among other drinks you can choose universal wines, beer or other European drinks. They are available at the restaurants of the “Rozafa”, “Argenti, “America” and “Colosseum” hotels and at “Palma”, “Athens”, “Big Cafe”, “Hysa”, “Dolce Vita”, “Cristal” restaurant-bars.
Foreigners who have tasted the tradional food have expressed their best regard concerning the dishes and the service. You can come, have a try and give your impressions too. |
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